Kit Prep and Important Notes

Some of these notes may or may not apply to the specific model you are working on


1. Most of the major components of our kits are handmade and some parts may require modification for proper fit. This is usually accomplished with sandpaper or file.

2. The thread in the kit should be stained black for stays and shrouds and tan for running lines such as
halyards, sheets, & stays. After staining the thread, it is advisable to run it through beeswax. This protects the thread from moisture.

3. When using other manufacturer’s products such as paints, glues, etc. be sure to follow their recommendations.

4. When sanding, gluing, or painting use proper respiratory device

5. Use Gap Filling Cyanoacrylate glue for resin assembly. Medium viscosity. Use wood CA for wood assembly. Canopy glue for glazing. Do not glue painted surfaces.

6. When referring to the Left or Right of the boat, we are looking from the rear (stern) to the front (bow).
Right = Starboard Left = Port Rear = Aft or Stern Front = Bow

7. When referring to “glue blocks or strips” we are referring to pieces of styrene or wood cut to a
short length, that would be glued to a specific location to further aid in assembly by acting as a
stop and glue joint for pieces being glued to that piece.

8. In the kits you will find clear acetate, and this is for the windows. Some kits come with uncut sheets of acetate while others come with sheets that have been laser cut to meet the needs of the kit. We use Canopy Glue, Formula “560” to adhere the acetate to the window frames. We do not give you specific instructions as to when the acetate should be installed. This depends entirely on how and when you decide to do the final finishing such as spray paint, clear or high gloss sprays, washes, etc. All of these will have an effect on the acetate. Preplan the installation of the acetate.

9. When cutting strip wood or styrene we use a cutter that allows for repeated cuts. We use “the chopper” by Northwest Shortline and set lengths with a caliper or ruler.


10. Mold release should be removed from all urethane resin parts to allow for good gluing and painting. We use warm water & dish detergent then rinse in water and dry.

11. Most flashing we have removed from all our cast parts (resin or metal). Any remaining may be cleaned up with #11 hobby blade, fine abrasives, files etc.

12. There is a minimum number of holes or voids in the resin castings. If necessary, patch with
“Squadron” fast drying “green putty” or “Dr. Micro tool putty” to fill voids of any size. When assembling a full hull kit that has a two-part hull it is necessary to use putty to properly blend the bottom and top part together.

13. All resin surfaces to be glued should be sanded first with at least a fine sandpaper.

14. Resin parts shape or form may be changed by placing them in hot water or heating with a hair dryer.. This might be necessary at times when fitting is required.


15. The wood frames that carry the laser cut wood parts are referred to as carriers.

16. Sand all edges of the laser cut wood to remove the ash. This will allow for proper gluing and painting. Scrape the inside of windows with back side #11 blade.

17. When folding laser board (heavy paper) a slight cutting of the scored line with a # 11 blade works wonders


18. The metal castings, brass tubing and brass sheets should be cleaned before painting. We use warm water and dish detergent or lacquer thinner to remove oils.

19. Brass parts do not need to be soldered. Assembly can be accomplished with the use of CA glue provided the surface to be glued is properly cleaned and perhaps a light sanding with very fine sandpaper.


20. We painted our model after the various assemblies were assembled. Carefully think through your painting schedule. Remember it is difficult to glue over painted surfaces.
21. All components of the kit should be primed prior to finish painting. Two coats of primer is recommended.


Here is a list of some of the items you will need to assemble and finish this model
1. Drill bits, (also a pin vise)
2. Small files (flat & round)
3. Sandpaper 150 to 400 grit
4. Sewing needles to pull thread thru drill holes (.020 dia preferred)
5. Finishing supplies (paints thinners, wash materials, brushes
6. Small 6” rule with 1/32” increments
7. # 11 cutting blade and handle
8. Tweezers
9. Wire cutter to cut brass rod